Cordillera dishes show connection to the earth


MEAT AND HERBS “Etag” (smokedmeat) brings out another layer of flavorwhenprepared withherbs.—PHOTO BY EV ESPIRITU

MEAT AND HERBS “Etag” (smoked meat) brings out another layer of flavor when prepared with herbs.—PHOTO BY EV ESPIRITU

In 2016, culinary experts in the Cordillera were invited by the Department of Tourism (DOT) to participate in an “immersion” tour so they could witness how upland people prepared their meals.

They must have been so impressed by their food encounter that they concocted new versions of the indigenous dishes, including those traditionally served during the “cañao,” the communities’ grand celebration of thanksgiving.

Why not sushi using “unoy” (heirloom rice grown in Kalinga) or “inlagim” rice (essentially a rice meal mixed with the Ifugao’s version of “pinikpikan”) and “etag” camote soup (thick soup garnished with smoked pork, a highland meat delicacy)?

NATIVE SAUSAGE “Pinuneg” (blood sausage),made from pig’s blood, is among the dishes served during gatherings in the Cordillera.—PHOTO BY EV ESPIRITU

NATIVE SAUSAGE “Pinuneg” (blood sausage),made from pig’s blood, is among
the dishes served during gatherings in the Cordillera.—PHOTO BY EV ESPIRITU

Cordillera recipes are indeed undergoing changes from one generation to the next, but a recently launched book, “Heirloom Recipes of the Cordillera,” exhorts highlanders to reconnect with the old ways of preparing food that reflect their communities’ ties with the world.

The book says, for instance, that there is more to etag than the long curing process of pork slabs smothered with salt under open flame, preferably fueled by birch and redwood to provide its unique flavor.

Etag remains a communal delicacy, and family members partake of the meat during cañao feasts, which mark every stage of life in the community — from welcoming a newborn or honoring a death, says Judy Cariño-Fangloy of Partners for Indigenous Knowledge-Philippines (PIKP).

PIKP and the Philippine Task Force for Indigenous Peoples produced “Heirloom Recipes of the Cordillera,” a compilation of 100 indigenous recipes, which was launched in April in Sagada, Mountain Province, and in Baguio City.

‘DINAKEWAYTILAPIA’ Grilled tilapia is garnished withmangosalad.—PHOTO BY EV ESPIRITU

‘DINAKEW AY TILAPIA’ Grilled tilapia is garnished withmangosalad.—PHOTO BY EV ESPIRITU

The recipes show how older generations lived off the land.

“From careful observation and experience, the people learned the best time to plant seeds and when to harvest. They knew when and how to catch the fish, gather the snails, crabs, frogs and tadpoles from the waters, and collect the edible mushrooms,” Fangloy says.

Typical meal

The typical highland meal consists of locally grown grains, root crops, stems and shoots of vegetables and fruits, fish, crabs, snails, farm animals and, occasionally, insects.

SUSHI ‘UNOY’ Sushi using “unoy,” anheirloom rice variety grown in Kalinga.—PHOTO BY EV ESPIRITU

SUSHI ‘UNOY’ Sushi using “unoy,” anheirloom
rice variety grown in Kalinga.—PHOTO BY EV ESPIRITU

Caught or raised in communal lands, the ingredients “are fresh, natural, packaging-free and simply delicious,” Fangloy says.

The people worked with simple ingredients and cooking implements, she said, because most families learned to live with what was available.

Nothing was wasted and every meal could be shared, she adds.

Rice cycle

SACRIFICIALANIMAL Nativeblack pigs are sacrificedduring community gatherings and feasts, and are prepared, cooked and shared with the “ili” (village).—PHOTO BY EV ESPIRITU

SACRIFICIAL ANIMAL Native black pigs are sacrificed during community gatherings and feasts, and are prepared, cooked and shared with the “ili” (village).—PHOTO BY EV ESPIRITU

The book also features 20 rice recipes, indicating how many upland community meals are connected to the cycle of producing rice, says Rita Papey, nutrition program coordinator of the National Nutrition Council in Cordillera.

Seasons in Ifugao are referred to by the applicable stages of the rice cycle, Papey says.

“Ahi gaud” is the Tuwali term for the preplanting season. It occurs before “ahi tunod,” or planting season.

‘INLAGIM’ CHICKEN Ifugao’s version of the chicken soup “pinikpikan.”—PHOTO BY EV ESPIRITU

‘INLAGIM’ CHICKEN Ifugao’s version of the
chicken soup “pinikpikan.”—PHOTO BY EV ESPIRITU

When “ahi kaogoko” comes, it is time for weeding. “Ahi ani” means harvest time.

Producing most Cordillera meals is often a family effort. An Ifugao household prepares “binakle” (rice or camote cake) after supper so it can be served for breakfast the next day.

Leftovers are packed as snacks for family members working in the fields.

ABRA SALAD Saladusing shrimp caught in Abra River and vegetables harvested in Abra province.—PHOTO BY EV ESPIRITU

ABRA SALAD Salad using shrimp caught in Abra River and vegetables harvested in Abra province.—PHOTO BY EV ESPIRITU

Papey says Filipinos can embrace some Cordillera recipes as healthy food options to combat what she describes as their “changing dietary patterns due to processed calorie-dense food and a reliance in technology that leads to a sedentary lifestyle.”

The cañao is also an avenue for expressing gratitude for “the bounty of the land, which continuously provides nourishment for generations,” she says.

“The food nourishes not only the body, but also the spirit, the community, the race,” Fangloy says.

Recent Stories:

Complete stories on our Digital Edition newsstand for tablets, netbooks and mobile phones; 14-issue free trial. About to step out? Get breaking alerts on your mobile.phone. Text ON INQ BREAKING to 4467, for Globe, Smart and Sun subscribers in the Philippines.

Disclaimer: The comments uploaded on this site do not necessarily represent or reflect the views of management and owner of INQUIRER.net. We reserve the right to exclude comments that we deem to be inconsistent with our editorial standards.

Copyright © 2019,

To subscribe to the Philippine Daily Inquirer newspaper in the Philippines, call +63 2 896-6000 for Metro Manila and Metro Cebu or email your subscription request here.

Factual errors? Contact the Philippine Daily Inquirer's day desk. Believe this article violates journalistic ethics? Contact the Inquirer's Reader's Advocate. Or write The Readers' Advocate: c/o Philippine Daily Inquirer Chino Roces Avenue corner Yague and Mascardo Streets, Makati City, Metro Manila, Philippines Or fax nos. +63 2 8974793 to 94


  • Cops arrest man who beat up, killed wife in Camiguin town
  • Esper discusses keeping small US force in northeast Syria
  • Reopening of malls in quake-hit Digos ushers in normalcy after 6.3 magnitude tremor
  • Czech spy agency says Russia built cyberattack network
  • Japan braces for 2 more storms after deadly typhoon
  • Sports

  • Pacquiao gets own football kit from FIFA chief Infantino
  • Chongson says UE needs change in management as Final 4 drought continues
  • Val Chauca takes blame for latest Adamson meltdown
  • Lakers’ Kyle Kuzma ruled out for NBA season opener vs Clippers
  • Japan’s come a long way since early days of lopsided losses
  • Lifestyle

  • Fake passport obtained from fixer got beauty queen detained in Paris – BPCI
  • Someone subtitle this Francis Mallman show, por favor!
  • Beleaguered beauty joins Miss Grand International
  • JP Pining’s ‘Zoo’ lends wonder to global issue of animal welfare
  • Migs Villanueva celebrates childhood in ‘Catch Me If You Can’
  • Entertainment

  • WATCH: Sparse trailer for Kanye West Imax film released
  • ‘Abominable’ won’t be screened in Malaysia over South China Sea map
  • Jennifer Lawrence marries art dealer Cooke Maroney
  • Binibining Pilipinas belies not assisting Samantha Lo with travel issues
  • LOOK: Hale’s Champ Lui Pio welcomes first child
  • Business

  • Media Outlook 2020 unfolds disruptions in Traditional and Digital Media
  • Maritime industry seeks solutions to limit pollution
  • WOW factor makes remarkable events
  • More manufacturers relocating to Thailand from China, Hong Kong
  • More loans: PH to borrow P182B from foreign sources in 2020
  • Technology

  • Filipina scientist discovers ‘world’s largest caldera’ in Philippine Rise
  • 19-year-old Filipino part of US hackathon’s winning team with solution for food wastage
  • US: Russian hackers use Iranians to mask their identities
  • WATCH: Researchers create human-like skin case for phones, tablets
  • Rescued circus elephant Ramba arrives at Brazil sanctuary
  • Opinion

  • Editorial cartoon, October 21, 2019
  • 41-percent decline
  • Time running out on Marcos protest
  • Marawi: Liberation or ‘occupation’?
  • An influx of women
  • Global Nation

  • Duterte flies to Japan for Emperor Naruhito’s enthronement
  • Cambodia backs East Timor Asean bid
  • DOLE working on labor pact with Slovenia, around 5k jobs up for grabs
  • China top source of PH imports, including pollution
  • Philippine Army bags silver at world’s toughest patrolling test

    • Cordillera dishes show connection to the earth

      Read More

    • THIS WEEK’S FESTIVALS: May 19-25, 2019

      Read More

    • McDonald’s PH Chairman & Founder, George T. Yang turns over three performing arts studios for DLSU Manila

      Read More

    • Cops arrest 6 ‘Basag Kotse’ suspects

      Read More

    • Honest naia cabbie cited for exemplary deed

      Read More

    • Mom of 5-year-old girl with leukemia looking for more good samaritans

      Read More

    • Compensation commission releases P2.3-M to aid Marawi soldiers

      Read More

    • PNP can’t always fool public with ‘nanlaban’ claims – solons

      Read More

    • Poll: Most dislike NFL protests and Trump comments

      Read More

    • Former Mexico governor wanted in US arrested

      Read More

    • US: Nobel Peace choice doesn’t change US stance

      Read More

    • California becomes first ‘sanctuary state’ for undocumented migrants

      Read More

    • Mexican photojournalist found dead after kidnapping

      Read More

    • Moscow gets 130 fake bomb calls, evacuates 100,000 people

      Read More

    • Frustrated police appeal for public’s help in Vegas case

      Read More